WE ARE IN DARWIN WEEK 2

MONDAY 24TH JUNE   -   We drove out to Adelaide River, an hour’s drive from the caravan park.  We drove through some magnificent low, flat wetlands which totally flood in the monsoon season.   We stopped at the Visitor Information Centre on Beatrice Hill to see Window on The Wetlands which overlooks the Adelaide River floodplains.  The Visitor Centre is an interactive display showing the seasonal changes and detailed history and information of the local aborigine people and wildlife and flora of the northern coastal wetlands area.  On the top floor there were superb views overlooking the floodplains.

From there we drove further along to Adelaide River to go on the original Jumping Crocodile Adelaide River Queen Cruise.  It was $30 per person and the trip lasted an hour.  The boat was a double decker, with enclosed glass windows and air-conditioning downstairs and a covered open deck upstairs.  The river was very brown and murky.  Our captain was a character and full of information and humorous anecdotes.  He had to go up-river for a few minutes past an orange marker before the crocs could be fed.  This was to discourage the crocs from lingering around the moored boats, jetty and of course people in those areas.  It didn’t take long to spot some of the territorial saltwater crocodiles lazing idly on the river banks.  They blended in so well with the mud it was hard to spot them at times, even the bigger ones.  They soon started to swim over towards the boat to be fed by Lisa on the top deck.  On either side of the deck there were 2 long metal poles from which the food was attached by nylon string and dangled into the water for the crocs to take.  Their food was 2 big pork chops each.  The swishing motion of the food in the water instantly attracted them over towards the boat.  It was scary to see how fast they swam over and how well hidden they were in the muddy water.  Captain Jim told us they can swim up to 20 mph and on land reach speeds of up to 40 mph.  They were all different sizes.  Even the smallest baby was scary to see with extremely powerful jaws. Saltwater crocodiles are the largest living reptiles and can grow up to 6 metres.  They often float with only their eyes and nostrils above the water so as not to alert their prey and they can still see when totally submerged as they have a transparent eyelid that protects their eyes.  They also have excellent hearing.

At one stage, two crocodiles came over to the boat, a smaller female and a big male.  The male soon got shooed away by the female as it was her territory and she wasn’t missing out on her food. It was absolutely incredible to see these massive reptiles lifting their bodies so high out of the water and their powerful jaws clamping down and tearing the chops from the pole.  I went on the lower deck to get a more up close view and I was very glad to have a glass barrier between them and me.  I was also glad to be in a bigger double storey boat (some of the tours are on smaller, single, open deck boats with no glass window) – Crikey!!!

The food the crocs get fed from the boat  is such a small part of their diet and doesn’t interfere with their natural hunting instincts.

Captain Jim told us his previous job was dangling on the end of a rope being helicoptered into the crocodile nests to collect eggs, record temperatures and data.   The temperature in the nest determines the sex of the babies.

On the way back to the jetty, we were entertained by flocks of wild Kites feeding on the scraps that Lisa threw to them.  They actually catch the food in their talons whilst in flight and toss it into their mouths – it’s called “eating on the wing”.  It was fascinating to watch them.   They’re so graceful with a big wing span.

We really enjoyed the trip and found it very interesting.

TUESDAY 25TH JUNE  -  We visited the Territory Wildlife Park which took 10 minutes from the caravan park. It was set on 1,000 acres of natural bushland and is a place of cultural significance to the local indigenous people.  It showcased the native flora and fauna of the Top End and included wetlands, monsoon forest and open woodlands.  It was extremely well set out with the different areas all within walking distance of one another.  There was a hop on hop off shuttle train operating every half hour, transporting you to the drop off points as it was quite tiring walking around everywhere after a while.  Out first stop was the Nocturnal House where we saw a variety of snakes, lizards, mice, bats and sugar gliders in their darkened enclosures.  From there we went to the Monsoon Forest Walk with freshwater natural springs, billabongs and woodlands and lagoons.  We saw a simulated tropical storm, complete with thunder (when you pushed the button) and torrential rain.  We passed by exotic birds in natural surrounding enclosures and were particularly taken by the magnificently multi-coloured Gouldian Finches. 

We walked on to the Walk Through Aviary and were amazed with the Channel Billed Cuckoo, Blue Winged Kookaburra and Pied Doves all flying freely above us. We had lunch in the café and got the train up to the Flight Deck for the twice daily Birds of Prey display. We saw a large Buzzard break an emu egg (a manufactured one) with a stone it picked off the ground.  It kept throwing the stone at the eggshell even when it was well and truly smashed.  The handler told us he loved to show off. 

Then we saw a Barn Owl emerging from a hole in the tree stump opposite us and circling around and above us. 

It had such a beautiful face and was absolutely silent in flight so as not to alert its prey.

Next we saw a magnificent Jabiru with deep turquoise neck and head and gigantic white feathers with black stripes on and long gangling legs soaring into the grassed display area.  Their beaks are so strong they can penetrate a turtle shell.

Next we saw an Osprey circling high in the air.  It wouldn’t come in to land until the Whistling Kite flying nearby disappeared.  We saw it dive bomb into the water to retrieve the meat treat the handler threw there for it.  It was so quick and powerful, skimmed over the water, caught the treat in its feet and flew up onto a perch to eat it.  It turned its back to us and hunched its shoulders over the meal to hide it from view.   Then we saw two beautiful Lorikeets flying from their enclosure to the wooden poles in the display area.  They flew around, had a few treats and promptly flew back to their handlers.  The show was very well done and really entertaining.  We asked the handler how long it took to train them and were surprised to learn only a few weeks as the birds are basically following their natural instincts. 

The show lasted for 30 minutes, then the handlers brought out a Wedge Tailed Eagle that had been found with an injured wing a while ago.  She was unusually tame and loved being stroked and massaged by her main handler.  She would only let the three bird handlers touch her though. 

We also saw a beautifully soft dark brown owl and he had a ticklish spot at the base of his neck.  He too loved being stroked and massaged and would let anyone touch him.

We really enjoyed our visit to the Wildlife Park and stayed much longer than we expected to.

FRIDAY 27TH JUNE  -   We drove to Mary River which took us 1 ½ hours from the caravan park and went on the Corroboree Billabong Wetland Cruise.  It was a small covered flat barge licensed for 33 people.  The boat was full and was $70 each.  They also operate a 2 ½ lunch cruise and a sunset cruise.   Bookings are essential as it’s a very popular trip.

As we set out across the Billabong, we went amongst the abundant deep pink water lilies standing so tall amidst their deep bowl like leaves.  The leaves were waterproof and had a rough sandpaper feel. There were deep banks of them along both sides of the Billabong.  Every bit of the flower and stem is edible – the stalks taste similar to celery.  When the flower falls off the stem it leaves an upside down triangle that resembles a shower rose.

We first spotted the tiny, skinny Comb Crested Jacanas (nicknamed Jesus Birds as they appear to walk on water).  They had a cute bright red fluffy comb on the tops of their heads.  They were hopping from leaf to leaf so nimbly and were really amusing to watch.   Their legs were longer than their bodies. 

We saw lots of White Bellied Sea Eagles, Egrets (Snake Neck and Intermediate) and beautiful Jabirus, the female has bright yellow eyes and they mate for life.  Their skinny, gangly legs have a knee joint that goes backwards to allow them to walk through mud. 

There were many migratory birds in the Billabong, some from as far as Russia. 

We saw freshwater crocodiles lazing on the banks.  They aren’t as aggressive or as powerful as saltwater crocs but I still wouldn’t want to get in their way. 

We went into a narrow passage called Lily Alley as there were deep banks of lilies on both sides with a small channel for the boat to manoeuvre through.  We saw termite nests high in the trees, as they couldn’t survive when the wetlands flood and eagles nests that become bigger and bigger each year when the parents return to the same nest annually.

The trip lasted an hour and was fascinating. 

Mary River is a popular area for fishing and has house boats available, although I’d be very reluctant to spend too much time on the water with all those crocodiles about. 

TRIVIA:  NT obviously stands for Northern Territory, but up here the locals call it “Not Today”, “Not Tomorrow”, “Not Tuesday”, “Not Thursday”, “No Time” as the pace of life and attitude to things is much more laid back and relaxed.

NEXT WEEK:  We will be in Darwin for another week and will be visiting the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory to see the history of Cyclone Tracy display.  We will also be visiting Berry Springs, The Chinese Temple and Waterfront area.

Darwin Litchfield

WE'RE IN DARWIN   -   WEEK 1

FRIDAY 13TH JUNE   -  We left Katherine for our next destination Darwin, a further 270 kilometres north.  On the drive up we passed several signs “Please Arrive Alive” and “Rest or R.I.P”.  After a 4 hour trip, we arrived at Tumbling Waters Holiday Park, 50 kilometres outside of Darwin City.   We chose this park as there were only 4 caravan parks that took dogs and they were all full up. Straight away it had a very tropical feel and was on a lot of land, with different areas for camping, unpowered and powered sites and lots of tall, leafy trees and palms everywhere.  It was a very busy park and most of the powered spots were already gone as lots of people had been there for a few weeks or months.   The sites were on the smallish size, but we managed to get the van in ok.  Parking the car was a bit squashy right in front of the van. 

We had a wander around the park and visited the crocodile lagoon that had 12 smaller freshwater crocs in it.  There was a walkway above the pool to look at them.  Dave the Manager fed them at 5pm each Saturday. It was quite startling to see them lazing on the grass in front of the pool as you’re walking past.  They’re so camouflaged they’re hard to spot at times!!

We read up on the list of activities each week  -   bingo on Thursday mornings, fortnightly trivia nights, cinema under the stars twice a week, happy hour on Friday, markets on Sunday mornings plus Wild Brekkie an interactive wildlife experience.  There was also a lovely licensed garden café/restaurant on site open 6 days a week and a swimming pool – plenty to keep us busy.

SATURDAY 14TH JUNE   -   We drove into Darwin City and had a walk around the George Brown Botanical Gardens.  Unfortunately, during the 1974 Cyclone Tracey, 89% of all the plants were destroyed. They have survived many other cyclones and the direct effects of WWII.  The Gardens were established in 1886 and were named after Darwin’s much loved, longest serving Lord Mayor. They were beautifully landscaped on 42 hectares in a very tranquil and peaceful setting.

A BEAUTIFUL BIG TREE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE PARK

Dogs were welcome around the park which surprised us.   Eve’s Garden Café was close to the entrance to the park and was very popular, with a “doggie coral” on the grass outside.  The café was run in the restored original 1897 Wesleyan Church building, the Territory’s oldest church building.  It had a shady verandah and seating at the back of the building.

We went to see the crocodile feeding at 5pm at the caravan park.  The crocs were so lazy they couldn’t be bothered feeding on the fresh chicken wings Dave was throwing in for them.  They really didn’t move much at all.

SUNDAY 15TH JUNE   -   We went back to the Botanical Gardens for the DonateLife NT Service of Remembrance at 9am.  It was a very emotional service and we met some beautiful people and heard the stories from donors and recipients, which were heart-warming.  The organisers did a fantastic job and we also met many of the nursing staff involved in transplants.  They were all so dedicated and kind.  It was a small attendance and we had a lovely morning tea on the Borassus Lawn, followed by a poignant ribbon tying ceremony on the big trees inside the front entrance as a finale to the service.

After the service, we drove around Darwin’s coastline to Fannie Bay and East Point Reserve, a beautifully grassed 200 hectare picnic and playground area with cycle paths.  Unfortunately you cannot swim in most of the waterways in NT as they are infested with box jelly fish/sharks/or crocodiles, so it’s not advisable to enter the water!!!  

We stopped at the Darwin Military Museum at the end of East Point.  It was a fascinating place filled with photographs, memorabilia and first-hand accounts.  We learnt how Darwin was bombed 64 times by the Japanese over a 2 year period and how the Top End was the frontline during WWII.  Warships dropped anchor in Darwin Harbour.  January 19^th 1942 was the day that changed Darwin and Australia forevermore, with 242 Japanese aircraft launching the first of many aerial attacks on Northern Australia.  We owe so much to the efforts of the people that fought so bravely and lost their lives. 

MONDAY 16TH JUNE   -   We set out early to Litchfield National Park set in 1,500 square kilometres.  It took us an hour to get to the entrance from the caravan park.  Litchfield is named after one of the Finniss team of the first European explorers to the area -  Frederik Henry Lichfield.  For the first 75 years, it was the centre of tin and copper mining in the area. It then fell under a pastoral lease and was designated as a national park in 1986.

Our first stop in the park was at stunning Wangi Falls. It was a short walk from the car park to the main falls which were absolutely breathtaking, with 2 waterfalls cascading down the high cliffs into the large swimming pool. There was a boardwalk around the falls and a longer walk up to the viewing platform overlooking the plateau, through tropical rainforest monsoonal ferns and bushes.

We drove on to Tolmer Falls, another fabulous waterfall in a deep gorge that housed protected rare species of the Orange Horseshoe Bat and Ghost Bat. There was a 1.6 kilometre walk  around Tolmer Creek.

We had our picnic lunch besides gorgeous Buley Rockhole, a series of small waterfalls and rock holes with a walking track to Florence Falls.

Just as we thought we couldn’t’ possibly see anything more spectacular, we came to Florence Falls – a deep gorge with mind-blowing double falls set in a pocket of monsoon forest with a viewing platform looking into the awesome chasm and plunge pool below.

Some of the areas are only accessible by 4WD tracks.  Others were closed.

On the way out of the park, we came to the Magnetic Termite Mounds, some of them standing up to 2 metres tall. They were quite an awesome sight.  The mounds’ thin edges point north-south, minimising exposure to the sun, keeping the termites inside cool.

There were also many 6 feet high cathedral termite mounds around the park.

It was a  beautiful park to visit and well worth the drive out.

THURSDAY 19TH JUNE   -  We went to the evening markets at Mindil Beach Sunset Markets.  They operate from April to October each year on Thursday and Sunday nights from 5pm to 10 pm.  The market attracts up to 20,000 visitors each week.  There were about 200 stallholders.  They employ approximately 1,000 locals and it all contributes to the Northern Territory economy.

There were lots of art and craft, jewellery and clothing stalls, but the main attraction was the exotic range of food stalls – a gourmet’s delight - including Thai, Indian, vegetarian, pizza, ice cream and more.  Everyone was wandering around eating and the smells of food were divine.  We headed straight for the Thai stall as I’ve been hanging out for some spicy Thai food for ages.  I had stir fried calamari and vegetables in an aromatic chilli sauce – delicious. The market was buzzing with people milling around.  We went onto the beach area that was really busy with people sitting around waiting for the sunset to happen.  The sunset was amazing and over all too soon.  We went back into the market for an ice-cream dessert.  There was entertainment throughout the market with a band playing on the grassed picnic area.  Although there were a lot of people there, we managed to find a parking spot fairly easily.  We wandered around the stalls and enjoyed listening to all the music happening in different spots.

TRIVIA:  an amusing definition of Grey Nomads we found on the back of a wine list recently:

The “Land Down Under” has provided the ideal habitat for the recently discovered species of Homo Sapien, the “Grey Nomad.”  First emerging in the sixties around beach areas, travelling and residing in strange shaped boxes on wheels.  They have since evolved to favour much larger and luxurious contraptions.  Rarely sighted in cities, the “Grey Nomad” migrates north during the winter, where they frequent isolated coastal regions, the Top End and are spotted in the Red Centre.  Not at all with grey fur, known to be very friendly, tranquil and inquisitive, they are extremely approachable if offered wine.  Their offspring are often heard to utter: “Have you seen our parents?” and “Don’t spend our inheritance.”  This sociable mammal likes to congregate around waterholes to interact with other Grey Nomads from different habitats.”

It’s been very hot and humid since we arrived in Darwin.  Average temperatures 28 – 30 degrees most days and it’s only winter. We’re glad we aren’t anywhere near here in summer, it must be unbearable. Two nights this week it got down to 23 degrees and was so cold we had to put sweat tops on.

NEXT WEEK:  We will still be in Darwin and going on the Jumping Crocodile River Cruise, visiting Darwin Dam, Berry Springs and the Wildlife Park.   

WE'RE IN KATHERINE, NORTHERN TERRITORY

SATURDAY 7TH JUNE   -  We left Daly Waters for our next destination Katherine 276 kilometres further north.  It took us 4 hours to arrive at Riverview Tourist Village.  It was a big caravan park and $40 per night (we got a 10% discount as we’re Top Tourist members) with lots of shady tropical trees around.  There was a swimming pool and The Barra Restaurant/Café on site.  The staff were all very friendly and helpful.  Our spot was at the back of the park, with a gate in the fence leading down to Katherine Hot Springs – a 2 minute walk from our van.  We immediately liked the park and felt very comfortable there.  It was nice to have a bit of luxury after our 4 busy days travelling and free camping and we decided to stay here for 6 nights, as we couldn’t get into the caravan park in Darwin until the following Friday 13^th June.

As soon as we’d set up we went for a dip in the hot springs which were very refreshing and not overly hot.  There were 4 or 5 different crystal clear pools, at a constant 32 degrees.  They looked like glass as they were so clear to look into. There were grassy banks and big shady trees with a bbq/picnic are nearby.

Katherine is 317 kilometres from Darwin with a population of 11,000.  The first people of the area were the Jawoyn and Dagomen people.  The area is called “The Crossroads of the North”, with the Explorer’s Way and the Savannah Way leading north, south, east and west from here. The region stretches from the Gulf of Carpentaria to the west Australian border.

We took Sally to the local park twice a day for an off-leash run, which she really enjoyed.  It was a lovely green grassed area with a gushing stream coming over a low weir wall from Katherine River. It was very relaxing watching the water flowing by. 

TUESDAY 10TH JUNE   -   We went for a drive to Edith Falls in Nitmiluk National Park.  It took us an hour to get to the car park.  There were 3 popular swimming holes, the first one within easy reach from the car park.  Edith Falls is a popular tourist area with a café and picnic areas and also camping available.   Nitmiluk Gorge winds along 12 kilometres of sheer rock cliffs, most over 70 metres high.  There are 13 separate gorges.  Nitmiluk means “cicada place”.

The first pool was stunning with a cascading high waterfall.  The pool was surrounded by large pandanus trees.

We walked along the Leliyn Trail, a 2.6 kilometre round trip, which took us to the top of the escarpment and down to the upper and lower pools.  It was quite a rugged clamber up and down the rocks in places and we had to watch our footing, but the views over the falls and pools were stunning and well worth the effort getting up there. 

We had a lovely picnic on the grassed area by the café and car park.  We were eagerly looking forward to a relaxing lunch after our strenuous exercise.

THURSDAY 12TH JUNE   -   We went on a 30 minute helicopter ride with Heliwork WA Tours, a newly established company close to the Gorge.  It took us 40 minutes to get to the helipad.  We were greeted by our young pilot Jake and his 4 month old very well behaved black Labrador puppy Blakely.  The helicopter we were on was a small 4 seater and had no front doors.  Fortunately I was in the back and had a bar to hold on to plus a locked door.  I was still nervous as we headed off.  We got up to 1,000 feet very quickly and the wind was quite strong.  Soon we were flying at 1,500 feet above the tree tops.  Every time the chopper banked my stomach went with it and I was feeling sorry for Richard in the front with only a seat belt holding him in.  He was a bit scared to, particularly when it banked to the left, and he was holding on to his camera and trying to take shots with one hand, with his left hand holding onto the interior handrail. The views were stunning and it made us realise just how vast Australia is from up there.  We flew up and down the 13 separate gorges and over Katherine River. There hasn’t been much rainfall in the area so the waterfalls were quite dried up.  All too soon, we were back at the helipad and couldn’t believe the time had gone so quickly as we were just starting to get right into the flight.

After our ride had finished, we drove up to Katherine Gorge where you can do boat trips or hire canoes.

It was a busy area with school trips coming and going and tourists getting on and of the cruise trips.  We had a picnic lunch beside trees full of bats which we didn’t realise at first.  We’ve never ever seen so many of them in one spot, and didn’t realise they came out in the hot afternoon sun.   Fortunately none of them messed over our lunch!!! 

We went up to the Visitors Centre and had a look around.  It was a very interesting place. 

We’ve thoroughly enjoyed our stay in Katherine.

HONEY EATER - FREQUENT VISITORS TO OUR VAN SITE

NEXT WEEK:   We will be travelling up to Darwin – a 310 kilometre trip north from Katherine. We’ll be staying in Darwin for at least 3-4 weeks before deciding which direction next.  There are lots of choices to consider.  We’ll let you know as soon as we do.