WE ARE IN DARWIN WEEK 2

MONDAY 24TH JUNE   -   We drove out to Adelaide River, an hour’s drive from the caravan park.  We drove through some magnificent low, flat wetlands which totally flood in the monsoon season.   We stopped at the Visitor Information Centre on Beatrice Hill to see Window on The Wetlands which overlooks the Adelaide River floodplains.  The Visitor Centre is an interactive display showing the seasonal changes and detailed history and information of the local aborigine people and wildlife and flora of the northern coastal wetlands area.  On the top floor there were superb views overlooking the floodplains.

From there we drove further along to Adelaide River to go on the original Jumping Crocodile Adelaide River Queen Cruise.  It was $30 per person and the trip lasted an hour.  The boat was a double decker, with enclosed glass windows and air-conditioning downstairs and a covered open deck upstairs.  The river was very brown and murky.  Our captain was a character and full of information and humorous anecdotes.  He had to go up-river for a few minutes past an orange marker before the crocs could be fed.  This was to discourage the crocs from lingering around the moored boats, jetty and of course people in those areas.  It didn’t take long to spot some of the territorial saltwater crocodiles lazing idly on the river banks.  They blended in so well with the mud it was hard to spot them at times, even the bigger ones.  They soon started to swim over towards the boat to be fed by Lisa on the top deck.  On either side of the deck there were 2 long metal poles from which the food was attached by nylon string and dangled into the water for the crocs to take.  Their food was 2 big pork chops each.  The swishing motion of the food in the water instantly attracted them over towards the boat.  It was scary to see how fast they swam over and how well hidden they were in the muddy water.  Captain Jim told us they can swim up to 20 mph and on land reach speeds of up to 40 mph.  They were all different sizes.  Even the smallest baby was scary to see with extremely powerful jaws. Saltwater crocodiles are the largest living reptiles and can grow up to 6 metres.  They often float with only their eyes and nostrils above the water so as not to alert their prey and they can still see when totally submerged as they have a transparent eyelid that protects their eyes.  They also have excellent hearing.

At one stage, two crocodiles came over to the boat, a smaller female and a big male.  The male soon got shooed away by the female as it was her territory and she wasn’t missing out on her food. It was absolutely incredible to see these massive reptiles lifting their bodies so high out of the water and their powerful jaws clamping down and tearing the chops from the pole.  I went on the lower deck to get a more up close view and I was very glad to have a glass barrier between them and me.  I was also glad to be in a bigger double storey boat (some of the tours are on smaller, single, open deck boats with no glass window) – Crikey!!!

The food the crocs get fed from the boat  is such a small part of their diet and doesn’t interfere with their natural hunting instincts.

Captain Jim told us his previous job was dangling on the end of a rope being helicoptered into the crocodile nests to collect eggs, record temperatures and data.   The temperature in the nest determines the sex of the babies.

On the way back to the jetty, we were entertained by flocks of wild Kites feeding on the scraps that Lisa threw to them.  They actually catch the food in their talons whilst in flight and toss it into their mouths – it’s called “eating on the wing”.  It was fascinating to watch them.   They’re so graceful with a big wing span.

We really enjoyed the trip and found it very interesting.

TUESDAY 25TH JUNE  -  We visited the Territory Wildlife Park which took 10 minutes from the caravan park. It was set on 1,000 acres of natural bushland and is a place of cultural significance to the local indigenous people.  It showcased the native flora and fauna of the Top End and included wetlands, monsoon forest and open woodlands.  It was extremely well set out with the different areas all within walking distance of one another.  There was a hop on hop off shuttle train operating every half hour, transporting you to the drop off points as it was quite tiring walking around everywhere after a while.  Out first stop was the Nocturnal House where we saw a variety of snakes, lizards, mice, bats and sugar gliders in their darkened enclosures.  From there we went to the Monsoon Forest Walk with freshwater natural springs, billabongs and woodlands and lagoons.  We saw a simulated tropical storm, complete with thunder (when you pushed the button) and torrential rain.  We passed by exotic birds in natural surrounding enclosures and were particularly taken by the magnificently multi-coloured Gouldian Finches. 

We walked on to the Walk Through Aviary and were amazed with the Channel Billed Cuckoo, Blue Winged Kookaburra and Pied Doves all flying freely above us. We had lunch in the café and got the train up to the Flight Deck for the twice daily Birds of Prey display. We saw a large Buzzard break an emu egg (a manufactured one) with a stone it picked off the ground.  It kept throwing the stone at the eggshell even when it was well and truly smashed.  The handler told us he loved to show off. 

Then we saw a Barn Owl emerging from a hole in the tree stump opposite us and circling around and above us. 

It had such a beautiful face and was absolutely silent in flight so as not to alert its prey.

Next we saw a magnificent Jabiru with deep turquoise neck and head and gigantic white feathers with black stripes on and long gangling legs soaring into the grassed display area.  Their beaks are so strong they can penetrate a turtle shell.

Next we saw an Osprey circling high in the air.  It wouldn’t come in to land until the Whistling Kite flying nearby disappeared.  We saw it dive bomb into the water to retrieve the meat treat the handler threw there for it.  It was so quick and powerful, skimmed over the water, caught the treat in its feet and flew up onto a perch to eat it.  It turned its back to us and hunched its shoulders over the meal to hide it from view.   Then we saw two beautiful Lorikeets flying from their enclosure to the wooden poles in the display area.  They flew around, had a few treats and promptly flew back to their handlers.  The show was very well done and really entertaining.  We asked the handler how long it took to train them and were surprised to learn only a few weeks as the birds are basically following their natural instincts. 

The show lasted for 30 minutes, then the handlers brought out a Wedge Tailed Eagle that had been found with an injured wing a while ago.  She was unusually tame and loved being stroked and massaged by her main handler.  She would only let the three bird handlers touch her though. 

We also saw a beautifully soft dark brown owl and he had a ticklish spot at the base of his neck.  He too loved being stroked and massaged and would let anyone touch him.

We really enjoyed our visit to the Wildlife Park and stayed much longer than we expected to.

FRIDAY 27TH JUNE  -   We drove to Mary River which took us 1 ½ hours from the caravan park and went on the Corroboree Billabong Wetland Cruise.  It was a small covered flat barge licensed for 33 people.  The boat was full and was $70 each.  They also operate a 2 ½ lunch cruise and a sunset cruise.   Bookings are essential as it’s a very popular trip.

As we set out across the Billabong, we went amongst the abundant deep pink water lilies standing so tall amidst their deep bowl like leaves.  The leaves were waterproof and had a rough sandpaper feel. There were deep banks of them along both sides of the Billabong.  Every bit of the flower and stem is edible – the stalks taste similar to celery.  When the flower falls off the stem it leaves an upside down triangle that resembles a shower rose.

We first spotted the tiny, skinny Comb Crested Jacanas (nicknamed Jesus Birds as they appear to walk on water).  They had a cute bright red fluffy comb on the tops of their heads.  They were hopping from leaf to leaf so nimbly and were really amusing to watch.   Their legs were longer than their bodies. 

We saw lots of White Bellied Sea Eagles, Egrets (Snake Neck and Intermediate) and beautiful Jabirus, the female has bright yellow eyes and they mate for life.  Their skinny, gangly legs have a knee joint that goes backwards to allow them to walk through mud. 

There were many migratory birds in the Billabong, some from as far as Russia. 

We saw freshwater crocodiles lazing on the banks.  They aren’t as aggressive or as powerful as saltwater crocs but I still wouldn’t want to get in their way. 

We went into a narrow passage called Lily Alley as there were deep banks of lilies on both sides with a small channel for the boat to manoeuvre through.  We saw termite nests high in the trees, as they couldn’t survive when the wetlands flood and eagles nests that become bigger and bigger each year when the parents return to the same nest annually.

The trip lasted an hour and was fascinating. 

Mary River is a popular area for fishing and has house boats available, although I’d be very reluctant to spend too much time on the water with all those crocodiles about. 

TRIVIA:  NT obviously stands for Northern Territory, but up here the locals call it “Not Today”, “Not Tomorrow”, “Not Tuesday”, “Not Thursday”, “No Time” as the pace of life and attitude to things is much more laid back and relaxed.

NEXT WEEK:  We will be in Darwin for another week and will be visiting the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory to see the history of Cyclone Tracy display.  We will also be visiting Berry Springs, The Chinese Temple and Waterfront area.